Growing Some Vegetable In Your Garden

Soil, which is repeatedly used for growing vegetables of the same nature, deteriorates after a few seasons. Therefore a rotation system, which changes the use of the land each year, is good for both the soil and the crops. One crop may have a profound benefit on the soil for another, because of the feeding it has received and for the elements it may leave in the soil after the crop has been harvested. Growing crops of the same type without rotation can cause severe problems to that variety due to a build up of toxins, residues left in the soil; these can be harmful to that particular crop but not to others. By operating a rotation system it will ensure a regular working of the land in a structured manner. With balanced feeding of the soil, each section will greatly benefit from a fresh start and there will be a reduction in the incidence of soil-borne pests and diseases. Rotation also reduces fertilizer needs, because alfalfa and other legumes replace some of the nitrogen that some crops remove.

The rotation system may be a simple one; crops are changed year by year in a planned sequence. It can consist of four equal plots; one might be used for members of the cabbage family (brassicas), the second for root crops – carrots, turnips and potatoes; the third for members of the legumes, peas and beans; the fourth can be a group that contains onions, celery, cucumber, spinach, leeks, sweet corn, marrows and lettuce. An annual rotation will mean that no type or family of vegetables is grown on any one area for more than one in four.

Weeds are unwanted plants in gardens in general, but certainly must not be allowed to thrive in the vegetable garden. They reduce available moisture, nutrients, sunlight and growing space needed by the crops. Their presence can reduced crop growth, quality and yield. In addition, they can make harvest difficult. Weeds also provide cover for diseases and insect pests.

Garden weeds are hard to control because they grow rapidly, produce vast numbers of seeds, and spread aggressively by vegetative structures (e.g. runners, forming new plantlets) and/or seeds. There are several methods that should be used in a combined, coordinated effort to control weeds; they include both cultural and mechanical methods. Organic Mulches: Some of the most commonly used organic mulching materials are manures; bark chips, sawdust, grass clippings, leaves, and newspapers (shredded or in layers).

Inorganic Mulches: Black plastic is the most frequently used inorganic mulch. Clear plastic is of little use, as it does not exclude the light that aids weeds seeds to germinate. Inorganic mulches can increase the soil temperature by at least 6 to 80F. Therefore, their greatest value is early in the growing season when soils are naturally cool.

Mechanical Methods

Since emerged weeds present at seeding or transplanting are capable of growing rapidly, it is important to kill all weeds prior to planting. Weeds that emerge after planting should be removed early before they are past 3 inch (7.5cm) tall. A continuous weeding programme should continue throughout the season to ensure that weeds are eliminated from the vegetable beds. Generally this is done by hand and by using a suitable tool is a quick and easy operation.

Planting: – Not all crops are harvested at the same time; some crops are planted after others have been harvested so best use of the available ground is made.

This is illustrated by the planting of a crop of broad beans planted in November to be harvested in June, after which a crop of leeks could then take their place. Those crops which grow quickly such as lettuce, spinach and radish are generally planted between the likes of broccoli which is harvested in March and those crops which must be planted later when the soil warms up around May time.

To make full use of the available space, quick growing crops can be sown at the same time as those who are slow growing such as parsnips and parsley, for these have a very slow germination period.

Experience will help and guide the gardener to make the best use of the land. Timing is one of the basic skills in successful crop cultivation and one, which will enable the greatest use of land resources.

Soil Preparation: – When preparing the soil for sowing, the depth of the furrow or drill will depend on the size of seeds- the smaller the seed the shallower the drill, and the heavier the soil the shallower the drill. In average soils, drills 1/2in. (12mm) in. deep suits the seeds of parsley, lettuce and carrots; 1-in. (25mm) deep drills suit beetroot, spinach and turnips; peas and beans require 3in. (76mm) drills. Most seed packets however do give precise instructions as to the best sowing methods for those particular seeds.

My first year gardening result. Potted or boxed with water reservior, the garden is weed free and I hope I can move part of it indoor when winter comes.
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